Splash of Citrus

Invite the flavors of the tropics to your next dinner party

by berit thorkelson
Splash of Citrus
Photo by maki strunc photography
food styled by lara Miklasevics
styled by Lynn Ostrowski
Even on the shortest, darkest, most frigid days of winter, Mother Nature isn’t as cold as she appears. As if to help us get through the chill, her warmer side emerges in produce departments and restaurants everywhere. It’s citrus season. ¶ “This time of year, you see peak diversity, flavor, and abundance in citrus,” says Colin Anderson, concierge at Whole Foods Market in St. Paul. “We end up with two full tables packed with different varieties—it’s a great way to begin incorporating flashes of summer into your cooking.” ¶ Indeed, what better way to inject some sunshine into the dreary winter than to host a citrus fiesta? Grapefruit, Cara Cara and blood oranges, Meyer lemons, and key limes are high-profile regulars shipped in from southern states and other more temperate climes. All are like self-contained bundles of sunshine, holding a list of immune-boosting nutrients and antioxidants that go well beyond Vitamin C. After months of root vegetables and comfort food, their lightness and brightness relieve the taste buds and the eye. “I just love all the different colors and flavors,” says J.P. Samuelson, chef and owner of jP American Bistro in Minneapolis. “Citrus changes my perspective when writing specials and menus. It’s an affirmation that winter’s not going to be here forever.”

At-home chefs can follow Samuelson’s lead by taking cues from what’s eye-catching at the local market. Look for firm fruit with unblemished skin, he says, as bruising can lead to pith bitterness that infects the whole citrus. (This is especially key when shopping for heirloom organics, not bred for durability as are other types.) And don’t shy away from varieties you’ve never used—or even heard of. A reputable store’s produce manager, butcher, or fishmonger should be able to help round out your meal.

According to Noah Barton, executive chef and general manager at Chino Latino in Minneapolis, the only limit on citrus experimentation is your imagination. “You can throw a little bit of citrus into just about anything to add another dimension,” he says. “It brings a flavor you’re not going to get from other types of ingredients.” His view is informed by the global “tropical belt” cuisines that incorporate ample citrus and inspire Chino Latino’s menu—it cooks the ceviche (see recipes), freshens the curry, sweetens the caipirhinias (see recipes), and coaxes the pico de gallo to sing.

If you’re just beginning to experiment with citrus, a seafood-citrus combo makes an all but fail-safe pairing for any party. Think fillet-topping relishes, or a method you’ll see on jP’s menu: citrus vinaigrette drizzled over greens, served on the side or as a plate garnish (see recipes). Also, try mixing a variety of citrus juices, or substituting orange where you might normally use lemon or lime.

Photo by Maki Strunc Photography

While the latter two can work as a substitute for vinegar, orange can take the place of sugar, Whole Foods’ Anderson says. “The flavor of orange tricks your taste buds into thinking ‘sweet,’” he explains. “Just get a straight-up navel orange—the biggest, juiciest one you can find—and use that instead.” He advocates squeezing it into surprising places for lightness, such as Alfredo sauce or waffle batter. Or, let it star as your dessert, such as in fruit compote (see recipes), served alone, or as an ice cream or pastry topping.

Introduce color to your table by using citrus wedges or zest spirals as garnishes on appetizers, salads, entrées, and desserts. Anderson also recommends slicing round, V-inch cross-sections of fruit, and using cookie-cutters to make shapes to brighten salads, plates, or baked goods. “Get past just peeling and cutting it up,” he says. “Have fun with it.”

Two final pieces of citrus advice: “Use a sharp knife, and take your time,” Samuelson says. He so savors this time of year that he always preserves peak lemons (see recipes), for use with, well, you name it—through the season and beyond. “It’s a great way to capitalize on this abundance, to hold on to the season’s flavor,” he says.

Citrus Celebration

Set the mood. Nothing gets a citrus party started like music. Turn on some Roberto Carlos, Tom Jobim, Caetano Veloso, or Seu Jorge for a taste of the tropics.

Appeal to the senses. Suspend oranges speared with cloves over the table or add them to your centerpiece for dramatic color and rejuvenating citrus aroma.

Serve sunny beverages. Skip the wine for citrus-centered celebrations. The light, clean tastes of sparkling mineral water, vodka, or Sierra Nevada’s Celebration Ale or other wheat beers are better accompaniments.


Berit Thorkelson is a St. Paul freelance writer.

For Citrus recipes, see our February Savvy Host Recipes. For more information on featured products and suppliers, please see our Buyer's Guide.


* Click here for a Bonus Citrus Recipe.

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