June/July 2009 Garden Tips
Keep a lawn mowing height of no higher than 3 inches and water the grass about 1 inch per week—early morning is best.
Vegetables should be watered at least once a week with about 1 inch of water per watering. If needed because of hot weather, water deeply again in the week. This helps the plants form deeper roots, which is beneficial during watering bans. Examples of inconsistent watering include splitting tomatoes and onions with thinner skin and a bitter taste.
Since both overwatering and underwatering can damage your lawn and plants, the best solution is to water deeply and infrequently. Monitor your landscape closely and make adjustments to watering times as needed. Shaded and protected areas may need less water than other zones.
Start planting root crops (radishes/turnips/beets), leafy greens (lettuce/spinach/cress), and cole crops (broccoli/Brussel sprouts/kohlrabi) for fall harvest.
Remember to disinfect birdbaths two or more times a month as needed with a 9:1 water-to-bleach solution. Rinse thoroughly.
Now is the time to write in your journal where those spring bulbs are in your garden. Remove dead foliage that is easy to pull. Leaving the foliage until it is dead is nature’s way of feeding the bulbs for next year’s flowers.
Prune spring-flowering shrubs such as lilacs in June. If you prune after July 1, expect fewer flowers next year. All lilacs should be pruned before August 1.
Mulch your vegetable and flower gardens in mid-June. Mulch tomatoes using straw or dried grass to retain moisture and reduce weeds.
Set up trellises to support pole beans and peas, cucumbers, eggplant, morning glories, and clematis.
Stake all plants that will grow to 2 feet or higher. Using a large bamboo stake and pushing it well into the ground will allow you to pull it up some as the plant grows and replace it as needed. Tie a green tie around the middle of the plant and loop the tie once around the stake to keep the tie in place. Lightly tie the plant to keep it as natural looking as possible.
Mid-June is the time for a second yard fertilization. This is also a good time for a follow-up, pre-emergent crab grass treatment.
Prune raspberry canes as soon as their summer crop has set. Deadhead annuals and roses to encourage new growth.
Remove hydrangea stems that do not have any new spring growth on them.
Continue your monthly aluminum sulfate treatments on your Endless Summer hydrangeas.
Rose fertilization should be continued if not already started. Once a month is sufficient, if you are not using a time-release fertilizer.
Look for holes in plant leaves, especially hostas, as evidence of slugs and snails. To control, sprinkle a slug and snail bait product around base of plants. Pet-friendly products are available.
If you are looking to rid your plants of “nasty” pests without using pesticides...spray plants with a strong blast from your hose. You’ll knock the bugs off or damage and drown them. You will also give plants a well-needed drink.
Be ever vigilant for garden and lawn diseases; be prepared to treat those problems that arise.
Start your own compost pile. Use an old trash can or a small spot of land that is exposed to rain and sun.
June and July are great months to monitor what does and does not work in your yard. Gather ideas about the climate of your yard and make sure that plants are located in the correct areas.
Check out your local garden center for specials to fill in for lost plants.
Planning a landscaping project for 2010? Take photos of your yard now while everything is in full bloom so your landscape designer has something to work from next winter.
Resources:
Home Sown Gardens
651-434-7349
Accent Gardens And Shrubs, Inc.
952-955-3927
Home and Landscape Design, Inc.
763-434-4122
Lawn King Inc.
763-420-2909
Villa Landscapes
Burnsville • 952-894-1553
Maple Grove • 763-425-927
Oakdale • 651-773-7440
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